Paolo & Sonja - Boazzo Valley

Boazzo Valley

The area where is the bridge is called "Passo del Lupo" (Wolf Pass), so we christened the pillar with the name
Dente del Lupo (The Wolf's tooth)

A view from the top of Mount Melma

There are only two chilometers between this pillar and our house, and despite its proximity to the city of Lecco it has been unknown till a few days of the year 2000. Obviously its discovery and the routes we opened on its limestone, particularly "Voglio una vita", gave us great satisfaction.
We noted its upper part biking on the Lecco-Ballabio road under construction ,then took some photos from the top of the Mount Melma that revealed us its potential good quality limestone, but the biggest issue was still a mistery: its approach! We first tried from its hydrographic left side but encountered soon steepy tricky hillsides, following the river gorge appeared practicaly impossibl;, at last we found the solution walking aronud the Boazzo Valley woods! Then, during our frequent journeys there, we discovered an ancient track haltingly on the right hydrografic side of the gorge, that carefully cleaned gives now an easy approach.
We kept our little secret for about an year, both to finish our projects and to enjoy the wonderful place in solitude for a while.

Ballabio, the 26th June 2000. Paolo Vitali & Sonja Brambati.

Approach: drive from Lecco to Ballabio, then:
1. go on for 4 Km toward Morterone (the italian smallest town!). Park your car near the third turn after the tunnel, then take the path pointed out by a sign to Ballabio. After 5/10 minutes walking, when the path becomes plain, left the main path to follow a track in the wood at your left. Go downhill in the dale and follow the dry torrent for about 10/15 minutes till the track turn right, after 50 m more you will find a rocks pile saddled with a tree, before a short chain (about 30 minutes from the car) . 2. Recommended: park your car near a greenhouse just before the road fork between Morterone and the sporting club "La Clavicola". Walk on the white road in construction till 50 m before the bridge. Near an out of use gate go up left on a short slab with a red mark and then follow the track haltingly on the Caldone river gorge. After about 10 minutes you will reach a chain followed by a rocks pile saddled with a tree (about 20 minutes from the car).
From the rocks pile go shortly downhill to a pulpit on the river, and then a few meters more toward right to a tree with a fixed rope that will take you in the gorge. Cross the river pool by big stones to reach the 50 m pillar base rock band (Please rewind the rope after your are back). Thanks to my father Francesco for his help cleaning the path!

Descend rapelling the routes, then back by the same path. The river gorge is rarely followed by canyoning activists, but proper gear is needed! The pillar is south-west oriented; the enviroment is isolated and super. Quote: 800m. All the belays are chain equipped for rappelling. The best time to climb here are the spring and fall afternoons, or the summer mornings with a later coolant bath in the river pool!

Sonja climbing the third pitch of "Voglio una vita"

Disegno di Pietro Corti

A) Al lupo al lupo - Climbed on the 22nd April and 18th June 2000 by Paolo Vitali & Sonja Brambati.
160m (+50 rock band) - max.diff. F7a (obbl.F6b) - equipped with 33 10 mm bolts + 10 for the belays. To climb it bring 10 quickdrawes, one friend n°2, 2 50m or one 70m rope. Nice vertical slab climbing.
B) Il coraggio delle idee - Climbed on the 9th and 16th March 2000 by Paolo Vitali & Sonja Brambati.
150m (+50 rock band) - max.diff. F6c 2 pa (obbl.F6b+) - equipped with 34 10mm bolts + 10 for the belays. To climb it bring a set of friends and 2 50m ropes. Nice slab climbing with some overhangs.
C) Voglio una vita - Ended the 29th September 1999 by Paolo Vitali & Sonja Brambati.
140m (+50 rock band) - max.diff. F7b+ (obblF.6c) 1 p.a. to avoid the last flake - equipped with 29 10 mm bolts and 1 peg + 8 bolts for the belays. To climb it bring 12 quickdrawes, friend n°2 and 3, 2 50m ropes. Slab, crack and overhang climb on super limestone. Be careful of the last loose flake.
D) Segreti di Pulcinella- Climbed on the 1st Maj e 3rd June 2000 by Paolo Vitali & Sonja Brambati.
110m (+50 di zoccolo) - max.diff. F7a (obblF.6b) - equipped with 23 10 mm bolts + 10 for the belays. To climb it bring 11 quickdrawes, 2 50m or 1 70m rope. Nice slab climbing, super second pith, less hard and beautiful the others.